This is an updated article by Ruth Marr based on a post Cathy Senecal wrote back in 2018. The writing is blended, like an interesting wine, since Cathy made our mouths water and we are still hungry. But trips have changed and we have had a chance to sample yet more wonderful meals with rowing friends in the interim. Bon Appetit!
Besides coolish rows and perhaps head races, autumn, for many, brings harvests, and our thoughts turn to food—fresh food. As at home, after a good, long row on one of our trips, nothing is better than a meal of fresh foods, especially when dishes are often distinctive to an area and full of unique flavours. Magret de canard comes to mind in the southwest of France and is a feature of our Dordogne and Lot River trips and our new Three Rivers in France trip; fresh seafood in Italy and pork dishes in the Mosel River Valley.
Along with abundant vegetable selections, we always see one or more of four of our favourites—duck, pork, polenta and seafood of all kinds—on the menu in these regions we frequent.
We are excited to return to the Mosel River Valley in 2022. We are daydreaming about smoked eel, which is a specialty here, as is baked trout. Just as popular are beef with tartar sauce, Tresterfleisch, pork marinated in wine, and Winzersteak, pork neck in wine. Cräwes is also very typical in this region, a puree with sauerkraut.
A lovely Reisling, ubiquitious in this region, will pair nicely. Yes, please.
All this talk of Germany food and wine reminds us of the absolutely spectacular dining we enjoyed during our 2021 Austrian Lakes rowing tour. The fish (not to get ahead of ourselves as we turn our attention to Italy) was local, seasonal and superbly fresh. With a nod to the season, we had pumpkin soup several different ways, but the best way to enjoy pumpkin in Austria is the pumpkin oil, swirled on the top of a soup or the star ingredient in a salad dressing. A special thank you to our wonderful guide Rüdiger, who treated us to a very special wine from Alois Lageder. He says it best:
They produce, in my opinion. the best wines in their region, that is South Tyrol, in northern Italy, once part of the Austrian monarchy. I had tasted some of their wines before, but never one of the rarities which you can hardly buy, even at their shop, I was fascinated to find this Cabernet on the wine list of Attwengers, and wanted to try it. It was a little bit on the expensive side, but I think it was worth the experience, and I always like to share good things.
In northeastern Italy, the culinary fare has been influenced by other northern and southern European countries such as Austria and Croatia. Viennese sausages, as well as pork dishes such as Prosciutto San Daniele, are special. Goulash and polenta are common, as are sides with cabbage, turnips and wild mushrooms. Wonderful to travel between regions and see culinary echoes.
In Venice, when we participate in the Vogalonga, seafood is also on the menu. Surrounded by lagoons and the sea, this comes as no surprise. At the very special Granviale Restaurant where we dine on the Lido, a small island off Venice, specialties include grilled bream, sea bass, sole, and baby squid. Depending on the day’s catch, baked monkfish or giant prawns may also be available. Now, that’s fresh. Of course, loads of tasty and unusual pastas and risottos, bruschetta and all the foods that you expect in Italy are also on offer.
The French consider the ancient oak forests and caves of the Lot River Valley deep France. In this land where medieval edifices perch on steep gorges, culinary traditions are unique.
You’ll find duck done countless ways including magret de canard and confit de canard or duck terrine. Cassoulet is a rich, slow-cooked casserole containing meat, sausages and white beans. We raved about pumpkin oil in Austria, but oh my goodness, walnut oil in this region is amazing. And speaking of those oak trees, there are truffles, something worth rowing for.
And once again, the wines are amazing. During the vendange, in September, winemakers harvest grapes for the robust Vin de Cahors. The fare above is best enjoyed, as King Henry II did at his wedding, with a wine so dark, it was called black or blood wine as we talk about in this wine post. Who knew?
Whether you fancy duck, pork, seafood or are more prone to vegetables and greens, you’ll find bounty so fresh and fine in Italy, France and Germany. They all pair best with rowing.
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