Japan has long been on our radar as a rowing travel destination. In 2011 the World Rowing Tour was held on Lake Biwa near Kyoto so we knew something was possible. Good things can take time to happen. Our research trip in early 2024 was the latest step on our journey to create amazing rowing and travel experiences in Japan.
How it got started
Planning began in earnest in 2021. We have been members of the Adventure Travel Trade Association for a long time and have occasionally attended their annual Adventure Travel World Summit. With the pandemic, the September 2021 event originally scheduled to take place in Hokkaido was moved to virtual but still hosted by Japan. I participated from my AirBnB apartment in Albi, France (that’s another story about Albi and small cities). During the marketplace I had meetings with different inbound Japanese tour operators. Things really clicked with Geraint and James of the J-Team. They do not know rowing but they sure know Japan. This approach, of partnering with a local travel company to be the interface with the rowing clubs and manage logistics, has been very successful for us to develop and run rowing trips in Turkey and Croatia.
As plans developed, I wrote a blog post about my family connection to rowing in Japan. Yuji Kawahara saw the post and contacted us, offering assistance. We connected Yuji-san with James and Geraint. What a wonderful collaboration has developed! Over two years, all of us worked hard to develop rowing trips that would showcase Japan and offer excellent rowing. The J-Team invested considerable time and expense to develop spring blossom and fall colour itineraries. The challenge was making the trip affordable.
Sometimes we are able to create a trip remotely, and the first time that I visit the destination is to run a test trip (like in Panama in November). Sometimes a research trip is needed. This became the case in Japan.
What we did
Anastasia and I left Canada on January 19th for an almost three-week trip. I had identified all the places that I wanted to see, although there was not time to go everywhere where good rowing might be possible. Anastasia put together an itinerary, researched transportation and found accommodation. Some were hotels suggested by the J-Team, ranging from higher end hotels to what are called businessmen hotels. She also booked two ryokans, the more traditional Japanese inns. Brilliant choices all, more on that later.
Transportation was via a three-week Japan Rail pass (what I called the $1,000 piece of paper -each- as we carefully ensured that we never lost it), a three-day car rental and three packed days of chauffeuring by James.
We met with the J-Team at the beginning and end of the trip. In between Geraint and James went with us to different meetings with Yuji and rowing clubs, providing essential translation assistance and perspectives. We visited just three clubs: those included in our initial spring and fall itineraries. We received such warm and positive welcomes from rowers at the Yokohama Tsurumigawa Boat Yard, the Seta Rowing Club in Otsu and the Seto Sea Rowing Club in Imabari. We enjoyed a motorboat tour at the latter – always great to be on the water!
In addition, we visited multiple venues identified by the J-Team, Yuji and our own research. We were especially intrigued by what we saw at Lake Suwa, Wakasa area with Suigetsu, Suga and Mikata Lakes, Matsue area, plus Lake Sakuraochi with the Hiii River, located between Matsue and Hiroshima. A lot more work will be required before we might build these locations into an itinerary, but it would be worth the effort.
Here is a quick summary of where we went in our whirlwind trip (click on days to expand and especially see all the photos – lots to see).
Day 1 – 20 January, Saturday – Train
Tokyo – arrival in Japan!
Day 2 – 21 January, Sunday – Train
Tokyo – visit to Toda, 1964 Olympic venue with many boathouses. Looked at nearby Arakawa River which can be accessed via a portage (steps!). Afternoon sightseeing.
Day 3 – 22 January, Monday – Train
Tokyo – meeting with J-Team. Afternoon looked at canals and waterways of Shinagawa.
Day 4 – 23 January, Tuesday – Train
Morning travel to Yokohama. Meeting with Yuji and Geraint and then with Yokohama Tsurumigawa Boat Yard.
Day 5 – 24 January, Wednesday
Yokohama. Sightseeing (focussed on exploring family connection) plus inspection of hotels plus harbour area and canals as possible rowing venues.
Day 6 – 25 January, Thursday – Train
Hakone. Hike on a section of the old Tōkaidō Highway and inspection of Lake Ashi with its beautiful views of Mount Fuji.
Day 7 – 26 January, Friday – Train
Lake Suwa – Looked at lakefront and boathouse.
Day 8 – 27 January, Saturday – Train
Further inspection of Lake Suwa. Afternoon sightseeing in Matsumoto.
Day 9 – 28 January, Sunday – Train and James driving
Early morning travel to Otsu. Meeting with James, Yuji and Seta Rowing Club. Afternoon inspection of Lake Biwa and the lakes near Wakasa.
Day 10 – 29 January, Monday – Huge day of James driving
Visit to Maizuru and the Japan Sea coastline including Kanzaki Beach and Amanohashidate Sandbar. Then a long drive to look at options near Shirahama on the Pacific Coast. Sea to sea in one day!
Day 11 – 30 January, Tuesday
Kyoto sightseeing.
Day 12 – 31 January, Wednesday – Rental car
Picked up rental car in Kyoto. Drove length of Maruyama River on our way to Matsue.
Day 13 – 1 February, Thursday – Rental car
Matsue’s two lakes and nearby coast. Sightseeing built in.
Day 14 – 2 February, Friday – Rental car and train
Inspected Lake Sakuraorochi with the Hiii River (a bit blocked by snow) before dropping rental car in Hiroshima. Visit to Peace Park then train to Imabari.
Day 15 – 3 February, Saturday – James driving
James came from Kyoto to meet us and the Seto Sea rowing club in Imabari. On the water and road inspection of some portions of the proposed tour on the Seto Sea.
Day 16 – 4 February, Sunday – Train and ferry
Travel to Naoshima Island (no rowing inspection – enjoying the museums on this art island and my passion for land art)
Day 17 – 5 February, Monday
Naoshima island.
Day 18 – 6 February, Tuesday – Ferry and train
Osaka. Afternoon sightseeing.
Day 19 – 7 February, Wednesday
Fly from Osaka airport to Tokyo to Canada.
This quick summary does not even start to capture all that we did and saw. And then there was the food! We ate so well including sushi, tempura, ramen, udon, soba, tonkatsu, okonomiyaki, octopus dumplings, train station bento boxes, snacks from convenience stores and much more. Japanese beer (alcoholic and non-alcoholic), sake and whiskey were sampled, along with hot canned coffees from vending machines and apple-flavoured KitKat.
The results – watch for Japan rowing tours!
We loved Japan and are thrilled that rowing travel looks increasingly possible for us to offer there. The research trip was invaluable in building relationships and growing our knowledge, understanding and appreciation for the country. Japan can be overwhelming. The more time we spent learning and doing, the clearer and easier travel and enjoyment became. Like the amazing rail and public transportation system. We took trains with some trepidation initially, but soon realized how organized and consistent it is and how easy to navigate.
My favourite hotel was the ryokan in Suwa City, where I had what might be the best breakfast of my life. The hotel in Matsue was entirely tatami mats and you left your shoes in a locker at the entrance. The Fujiya Hotel in Hakone reminded me of the grand CP Rail hotels of Canada – I especially adored the guest library where I spent several hours perusing books about Japanese landscape, design and culture. Some of the rooms in the businessmen hotels were tiny although modern and immaculate. Apparently couples will rent two rooms – one for them and one for their luggage. Several places had onsens – natural hot springs for bathing. Clear instructions in English explained the exact protocol to be followed – very helpful along with the hotel pajamas, slippers and yakuta or dressing gown which you wore to get there. This became my favourite way to start the day. We will definitely be using some of these properties on our future trips.
What happens next
With the J-Team we have selected dates and itineraries for two different trips to Japan. The first, tentatively set for 10 – 19 November 2024, featuring rowing with our established partners. We plan to return 25 March to 08 April with a different itinerary, showcasing what we are calling Hidden Japan – all those remarkable locations that we saw and fell in love with. The November trip will be during the beautiful autumn foliage season while the spring trip should include at least one cherry tree in blossom.
It will take some time before we have the first trip up on the website. If you have not already filled in the form to tell us of your interest, please do so. Then watch for announcements via emails, newsletters and social media. We really look forward to travelling and rowing together in Japan!
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